How to Build a Laundry Room Pedestal (DIY)

Introduction

Front-loading appliances have a lot of great features, but being easy on your back isn’t one of them. That’s why manufacturers offer matching pedestals that raise the machines to a comfortable height. But these pedestals cost up to $250 each, and you still won’t have a place to stash laundry baskets. With our plan, you can build your own unit for about half the cost, and get a functional pedestal that will look great in any laundry room. You can choose from the three versions we show here—contemporary, Craftsman and classic. They differ only in the amount of trim and moldings you add to the basic plywood carcass.

CHOOSE YOUR STYLE!

Build it basic or deck it out with moldings.

Contemporary

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Leave off the trim and you have a sleek and functional pedestal. This version doesn’t require any miters, so even a beginner can build it.

Craftsman

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Adding trim on the face and sides transforms the pedestal with minimal additional cost and work. Most of the trim cuts are simple right angles, so even this version is easy.

Classic

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If you prefer a traditional look, add moldings. You’ll need to cut a few miters to fit the moldings where they meet at the corners, so this version requires slightly more skill.

Skill, time and materials

The skill required goes up a little as the versions get fancier. Including painting, expect to spend a weekend on this project. In addition to standard DIY tools, you’ll need a circular saw and a straightedge guide or table saw to cut the plywood. A miter saw would make cutting the trim for the Craftsman version easier, and is necessary if you want to add the moldings. And a finish nail gun would simplify all the trim work.

The pedestal requires two sheets of plywood, and some trim boards and moldings if you want to add them. You’ll find all these at any home center or lumberyard. Remember, you can always ask to have the plywood cut into smaller pieces to fit in your vehicle.

Dealing with the dryer duct

Raising your dryer also raises the position of the dryer’s exhaust. And that may mean reworking the dryer’s exhaust duct. If the current duct enters the wall at least 20 in. from the floor, there’s no problem. But if the duct is lower than that, you’ll have to raise it. Also, if you want to snug the dryer up to the wall as we did here, you’ll need to recess the vent in a dryer vent box. For help with dryer ducting, go to familyhandyman.com and search for “dryer vent install.” Also take a look at the gas and/or electrical lines serving the dryer to make sure they’ll accommodate a raised dryer.

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