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Caulk the Gaps
Now that the filling, sanding and priming are done, caulk any long cracks and gaps. Use an acrylic latex caulk; it adheres well, remains flexible and cleans up with water. Cut the caulk tube at the very tip to leave a tiny hole. You’ll have better control of the caulk.
Apply a bead of acrylic caulk that protrudes slightly, then wipe it with a damp cloth wrapped around your finger. Wipe excess caulk off the cloth so you don’t smear it on either side of the joint. You may have to wipe several times to produce a smooth, clean caulk line.
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The Paint and the Brush
Don’t undermine all the time and effort you’ve put into the prep work by using cheap brushes and paint. Buy the best. With proper cleaning, a quality brush will last for years. In most cases, you’ll find the highest quality paint and tools (and good advice) at specialty paint stores.
While we recommend latex, it does have one weakness: It dries quickly. The longer the paint remains wet, the better it flows and flattens, leaving a smooth surface. We recommend you use an additive that slows the drying process and helps the paint lie smooth. (Floetrol is one common choice.) Read the directions for the amount to add.
Mix in an additive
For best results from brushing, don’t dip directly from the can. Pour a quart of the paint into a four- or five-quart pail. This is your working paint that will move around with you. Add the measured amount of additive and mix well.
Tap the brush; don’t wipe it
From this pail, you can dip and tap your brush without splattering. Dip the brush bristles one to two inches into the paint to load the brush. Lightly tap the tip of the brush against the sides of the pail to shake off excess paint.
Choosing a brush
As with paint, buy quality when you shop for brushes. Our favorites for trim are a 2-1/2-in. straight brush and a 1-1/2-in. angle brush for detail work and cutting in. Whether to use a straight or an angled brush is an individual choice. For latex, buy a synthetic bristle brush with “exploded” tips.
A good brush draws a decent “load” of paint into the bristles and applies it smoothly onto the work surface.
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Painting Wood Brushing Technique
The sequence: Quickly coat an area with several brush loads of paint, and then blend and smooth it out by lightly running the unloaded brush tip over it (called “tipping”). Try to coat a whole board or section, but don’t let the paint sit more than a minute before tipping.
Painting wood from the top down
The more paint the brush carries, the faster you’ll coat the woodwork. But you want to avoid dripping. So after dipping, tap the tip of the brush against the pail, like the clapper of a bell. For a drier brush, try dragging one side over the edge of the pail.
Hold the brush at about a 45-degree angle, set the tip down where you want to start and pull it gently over the surface with a little downward pressure. Start at the top of the board with the loaded brush and stroke down toward the middle. When the brush begins to drag, stop and reload.
Hold the paint brush perpendicular to the wood boards
Tip the wet paint by lightly setting the tip of the brush against the wet paint at the top of the board and lightly stroking down the whole length of the board. Hold the brush almost perpendicular to the surface for this stroke.
Here’s where the good brush pays off. The paint will flow smoothly onto the wood surface with little effort on your part. A common mistake is forcing paint out of the brush after it becomes too dry. The goal is a uniform thickness, but not so thick as to run or sag. With practice, you’ll quickly find the ideal thickness.
If the new color doesn’t hide the old, it’s better to apply a second coat than to apply one thicker layer. Continue the next brush load from where the last stroke left off, or work backward, say from an inside corner back into the wet paint.
Don’t worry about the fine brush strokes
When “tipping,” avoid dabbing small areas; this leaves marks in the paint. Make long strokes. The brush will leave a slight track of parallel ridges, but they’ll lie down before the paint begins to skin over.